Pelton Crane OCM Heating Element Replacement

The Components of an Autoclave:

Outer Casing (Main Housing)

Encloses the unit for appearance, safety, and heat retention

Bottom Platform (Base Plate)

Where everything is anchored down, legs are attached and the main housing is secured to Chamber. This is where steam is generated and, in turn, pressure. Through the use of trays, it is where instruments are placed for sterilization.

Reservoir: The retaining module for holding water to be used in the sterilization process

Controls

Timer

Temperature Control

Off/Fill/Sterilize/Vent Functions

Frame (Front Panel)

Steel frame covered with a faceplate.

Holds Gauges, chamber door, controls and lights

Lights (Indicators). When on,

Red: Means the power is on

Orange: Means the heat is on

Gauges

Chamber Pressure (recommended: 27-28 PSI (DO NOT EXCEED 30 PSI)

Temperature: (Ideal: 270F degrees (135 C)

Outer Casing

Stainless Steel

Mounts To Bottom Platform

OCM Models have 3 screws on each side

OCR Models have 4 screws on each side

Both Models have 2 Screws In Back

Outer Casing Removal

Step 1. Remove lid from reservoir

Step 2. Remove Screws from bottom sides and rear of outer housing with screwdriver by turning screws in a counter-clockwise direction

Step 3. Pull the sides out slightly from the bottom

Step 4. Lift the backend of the main housing and slide it forward about an inch (there is a lip on the top of the frame about ½” wide that the main housing is covering. Once the housing is past the lip. It is ready for removal

Step 5. Remove the housing by lifting straight up and away from the assembly and set it aside.

Step 6. Remove the blanket insulation and set aside. It’s a good idea to make a mental note how the insulation was laying on the chamber so when it’s time for reassembly, you can put it back the same way

Replacing Heating Elements

· To Speed Up Reassembly, Take a pencil and mark where the bands surrounding the chamber are located on the chamber. Then make a mark where the heating element facing you is located on the top corners.

· Now Loosen the bands surrounding the chamber with a flat bladed screwdriver by turning counterclockwise until the end of the bands come out of the locking mechanism. The heating elements will then fall down onto the heating bands.

· Trace the wire leading from the furthest heating element to the rear where it connects to the firewall and disconnect the wire.

· Pull the bands towards you. The elements will come out with the bands. Inspect and clean outside of chamber. (If there were copper plates with the old heating elements, discard them.)

· Replace the elements by wiring them together in the same fashion as the ones taken out.

· Attach the overtemp switch to the heating element that will be closest to you in the mounting bracket provided in the element.

· Lay the elements onto the three bands and feed the blank end of the bands back around the chamber.

· Start each band into the locking mechanism but do not tighten. Coming from the side of the chamber closest to the firewall, pull the rear heating element up until it Stops (there is a protruding plate towards the front of the chamber that it will butt up against. Make sure contact between heater & chamber is evenly distributed.

· Tighten the bands just enough to hold the heating element in place, but will still allow you to move the front plate. Line the bands up with your pencil marks and then pull the front plate into the position you marked earlier. Tighten slightly and then double check that all elements are still in place. Then tighten the bands.

Caution

To assure no burnouts due to hotspots, be certain that: Chamber surface is Dry & Smooth & that contact of heater to chamber is completely uniform.

Replace Back up plate.

Sequentially tie down bands. The same amount of torque should be applied to all 3 bands (40 in lbs maximum)

Perform final inspection. Verify that the curvature of the heaters matches the chamber and no gaps exist.

Note:

Heating element contains a mica material with an adhesive that may

cause a non-toxic smoke when initially energized. Heater installation

should be performed in a well ventilated area. Also, allow 10 to 15

minutes “burn in” time. After “burn

in” time, retighten the tie down bands. This will ensure better surface

contact between heater and chamber.

Excessive tightening of screws may cause heater to fail.

We recommend that the overtemperature switch which mounts on flip

up tab on heater be changed whenever the heaters are changed.

DANGEROUS IF PRESSURE EXCEEDS 35 PSI

Determine the cause of the sterilizer heater element failure.

• After removing the heater element –

DO inspect the chamber for distortions and holes in the surface. During

inspection, look for: 1) high or low spots on the chamber surface which could

cause hot spots to develop thus causing the element to prematurely fail; and,

2) holes which would allow water leaks. If any distortions or holes are found,

it is recommended to replace the chamber (replacements are no longer available).

• When installing the new heater element –

DON’T forget to remove the copper plate if one exists.

DO install the overtemp switch on the new heater

element’s flip out tab (on the center heater only) when replacing the original

mica element.

DO make sure that the backup plate is not touching the electrical terminals

on your new heater before tightening down bands.

DO make sure all wires are away from the heater and not pinched before

tightening down bands.

DO make sure that contact between the heater and chamber is evenly distributed.

DO expect some “smoking” during the “burn-in” procedure after installing a

new heater element.

DO tighten bands (about 40 lb • in. maximum torque) when the machine is

“cool” and then again after the first few cycles when the machine is “warm”.

DO stress to the operator the importance of not letting the chamber run dry -

the operator must remember to turn the machine “off” after each use and

especially at the end of the day. If the chamber runs dry, the surface could

become warped and/or holes could develop on the surface.

DO stress to the operator the importance of using distilled water, not tap

water.

Reinstalling Outer Casing

Before Starting this procedure, check to insure that all the screw retaining clips on the platform are centered on the holes where the screws attach the sides to the platform.. If they are raised, simply push them down with your screwdriver.. If they are off-center, you can realign them-also with your screwdriver.

Step 1. Install the blanket insulation. Place it in approximately the same position as it was when it came off

Step 2. Holding the backend higher than the front end, set the casing over the faceplate a little beyond the lip.

Step 3. Pull the main housing towards the rear until the lip on the housing is locked onto the lip. When properly installed, you cannot see the lip on the faceplate.

Step 4. Lower the backend of the housing over the rear of the assembly. Take your time. Make sure there are no obstructions or wires in the way. Lift the sides (from the bottom) of the front panels of the housing slightly away from the frame will ease the installation. Make sure the housing clears the reservoir

Step 5. Once the housing is in place, reattach with screws using a flat blade screwdriver by turning in a clockwise direction until tight.

Step 6. Replace Reservoir Lid

Chamber

The chamber itself is not repairable. While once a replaceable item, the rocketing cost of stainless steel has made replacement prohibitive. If the chamber has a hole in, it, it’s time to replace the unit.

The primary cause for a hole developing in the chamber is caused by letting the unit run without water. This usually happens when someone forgets to turn it off and it runs dry for a long period of time.

A Preliminary way to determine if there is a hole in the chamber is to look inside for a collection of rust in a particular area. Scratch with your fingernails. If pieces of metal come loose, there is more than likely a hole there.

To confirm it, remove the housing and remove the heater elements. Run your hand along the bottom of the chamber. If it is nice and smooth, there probably is not a hole all the way through. Make sure it is not run in a dry state again. If it is rough and you see rust on your hands or fingers, it’s time to replace the unit as above.

From Our Legal Department:

By performing these repairs yourself, you are agreeing that we are not to be held responsible for - and in fact you agree to hold us harmless in the event of accidents or malfunctioning of the unit in anyway.